Pines Profile - The Pines Liquor Shop (Est. 1964)
A Cultural Hub and Place of Welcome
By Virun Rampersad, March 2026
Few institutions in Fire Island Pines are so woven into the community that it's hard to imagine life without them. The Pines Liquor Shop is one such place. For over sixty years it has been more than just a purveyor of alcohol. It’s been a social center, a resource hub, and most of all, a place of welcome. Beloved by the community and embraced by visitors, the Pines Liquor Store has a fan base of their own that is spread across the country, and ranges from those who shun the spotlight to TV celebrities.
Bravo TV Host Andy Cohen Walking His Kids to School in NYC. Photo credit: BravoAndy
Ironically for a place of life and laughter, The Pines Liquor Shop came into being through a series of mishaps and tragedy. Its founder, Jack Lichtenstein, was working as the accountant for Daub’s, a liquor store in Sayville (today known as J&J Spirit Shop). The store’s owner, Larry Daub, noticed that a large amount of business was coming from Fire Island Pines. In 1963 he persuaded Jack to set up a shop on the island that he, Larry, would manage the following summer. Jack and his wife, Rita spent summer weekends in East Hampton and had never been to Fire Island, but the opportunity seemed like a good one.
Rita and Jack Lichtenstein. Photo courtesy of Lichtenstein family.
Unfortunately, just as the venture was about to launch, Larry passed away. Jack suddenly found himself with a liquor license, a store lease, a stockpile of alcohol—and no experience running a liquor store. Nonetheless, he decided to press ahead.
Jack’s maiden voyage across the Great South Bay did not go well. The captain of the sailboat he hired — it was the only transport he could find — veered off course and landed them in Point of Woods, a closed community several miles west of the Pines where Jack was both unexpected and unwelcome.
When he finally arrived in the Pines, Jack was immediately taken with the place. He rented a house on Beach Hill Walk and set up his new shop at the back of the Pines Pantry.
Jack in front of the original store. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
A lawyer and accountant by trade, and a storyteller by nature, Jack quickly become a central figure in the community. Rita, with her quick wit and deep kindness, earned affection and trust in equal measure. Jack’s main job was in Manhattan and could only be in the Pines on weekends. To help out, he hired a young man named Richard Hymen — who the Pines community quickly dubbed ‘Dick Liquor’.
Jack and Rita were both very comfortable being around gay people and quickly put down roots in the Pines, buying a house on Nautilus Walk. They became vibrant and visible players in the community, making everyone feel welcome in the store and in their home. But their involvement wasn’t all just fun and games; there was a serious side to it too.
In the 1960s the Pines was subject to police raids intended to harass the gay community. Men were routinely arrested on charges of “sodomy” or “indecency” and taken back to the mainland for booking. Not only was this traumatic for those involved, but at the time it could easily result in the loss of jobs and families. Jack, alongside figures like Henry Muller, would quietly post bail for those arrested. This simple, but crucial act of solidarity didn’t just earn gratitude and goodwill, it changed lives.
Newsday Article 1965
In the early years, The Pines Liquor Shop did well, and Jack grew to enjoy running it. Its competition was primarily from liquor stores in other Fire Island communities, like Cherry Grove, and the mainland. Jack hired help from within the community or from nearby towns on Long Island. Among them was Gary McGregor, son of longtime Pines resident Paul McGregor. These were the first Liquor Store Boys — well before the name was even coined — and Jack ensured they stayed focused and learned the basics of business. In 1971 the shop moved to a harbor front location, adjacent to the Pavilion, which offered increased visibility and more foot traffic. It also provided Jack a better venue to hold court and tell stories. He was especially thrilled when celebrities like Rock Hudson, Montgomery Clift and later Madonna visited the shop.
Jack Lichtenstein on the front deck of the Harbor front shop. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
Living in the Pines, Jack and Rita became very familiar with the challenges gay people faced from both social and institutionalized homophobia.
In 1973, Jack, alongside other community members, including Jim Pepper, Richard Burns and Ward Auerbach formed Lambda Legal in the Pines, a fundraiser for Lambda Legal, which was seeking to use the U.S. court system to win equal rights for gay people.
In 1974, The Pines Liquor Shop got its first taste of local competition when Carole LaFountaine, wife of legendary Pines resident Clern LaFountaine, opened Seagull Liquors in the old LaFountaine Building.
Photo courtesy of Nicky LaFountaine
Although Carole was a well-established and much loved community member, with an established customer base and in a highly visible location, The Pines Liquor Shop held its own. In 1980 Carole sold Seagull Liquors to Bill Funk who renamed it Spirit of The Pines and things got even tighter. Very soon, however, an even more serious threat emerged, one which threatened the very existence of the Pines.
New York Times article, July 3rd 1981.
Not only did many residents get sick and die from AIDS, but people fled the Pines in large numbers. Jack and Rita stayed. Firmly established in the community, they did their part to support their neighbors. They raised money for AIDS organizations and offered comfort to those affected. Unlike COVID, there was no quick solution to the AIDS crisis — it was over a decade before any real hope came onto the horizon — but through it all the Lichtenstein’s stood firm.
Amid the crisis two straight teenage brothers, Steve and Chris Nicosia, came to work in the Pines. Raised by Larry and Karen Nicosia to be kind, fair-minded, and courteous, they first came to the Pines to visit Karen’s stepsister Lee Fry as children. The Nicosia family had a diverse group of friends and were very comfortable being around gay people. Indeed, pre-Stonewall, Lee would frequently be the sole woman at Tea Dance, providing relief from the law that prohibited people of the same sex from dancing together. Karen worked in hospitals and ensured her kids were fully educated about AIDS, so the boys embraced the Pines without fear.
Lee C. Frey. Photo courtesy of The Nicosia Family
In the mid-1980s Steve got a job in the Pines Pantry, where Eric Shrader (who went on to buy the business) was his manager. In 1991, Chris got a job at The Pines Liquor Shop working for Jack, and shortly after Steve joined him on what was to become their life’s vocation.
Chris and Steve Nicosia. Photo courtesy The Pines Liquor Shop.
In many ways, the early years in The Pines Liquor Shop were a baptism of fire for the Nicosia boys. Jack understood how to leverage his money and his staff for maximum return, and Steve and Chris worked hard, both in the store and around the Pines. They got a crash course in wine and liquor and quickly learned the value of good customer service, rigorous expense management and the importance of always keeping an eye open for opportunities.
Rita Lichtenstein and Chris Nicosia with a customer in Harbor Front store. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop
The Nicosia brothers provided package deliveries, home set up, and repair services across the community. In addition, as the AIDS crisis stretched on they frequently transported sick and dying men around the community. With Rita providing hawk-eyed oversight - and repeated admonitions not to drive too fast — they effectively became the first mobility cart service in the Pines. It was a courtesy that allowed many people to see friends and have what was often the goodbye conversation.
Steve Nicosia. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop
Although it was not financially rewarding work, unbeknownst to them, Steve and Chris were gaining something more enduring – the love and respect of the Pines community. People remembered what they saw: two handsome teenagers, tenderly helping men who were dying, stigmatized, and terrified, out of carts, into homes, and into the arms of loved ones.
Chris Nicosia. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop
At a time when some hospital workers were still cautious about treating AIDS patients, the Nicosia brothers did not hesitate to step up. There was no squeamishness, just kind consideration. They used words few others offered: “Sir” and “Mister”. There was no sass, no disrespect, no inappropriate informality. Just courtesy and caring. In a time of fear, they gave dignity. It was something the Pines never forgot.
For these contributions — and so many others — in 1997, Jack was honored by SAGE for his contributions to the LGBTQ+ community, which at that point spanned more than 30 years.
Photo courtesy of Fire Island News
Fittingly, Steve and Chris were also honored, first by Pines Care in 2013 and in 2017 by SAGE for their own long standing contributions.
Steve and Chris Nicosia with Pines Care Recognition. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop
One of the casualties of the AIDS epidemic was Bill Funk, who got sick and closed Spirit of the Pines in 1997. This closure gave The Pines Liquor Shop some much needed relief in a difficult market. Fortunately, the crisis was easing, and people began returning to the Pines. More experienced, Steve and Chris took on much bigger roles running the store, allowing Jack and Rita to focus on other things in the community. In addition to Lambda Legal in the Pines, Jack was a 40-year board member of Fire Island Pines Property Owners Association (FIPPOA) and Rita served on the boards of Fire Island Pines Arts Project (FIPAP) and the Pines Conservation Society (PCS). One of the things that gave them a special joy was community theater. They performed often and with enthusiasm in FIPAP’s Labor Day shows, frequently bringing their families along.
Jack and Rita at a Labor Day Show. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
As the new millennium dawned volume picked up. It didn’t take long before Steve and Chris needed help to keep up with the growth in business.
The Liquor Shop Boys circa 1995. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
Following in their footsteps came a new generation of Liquor Shop boys that included Paul McEvoy, and Ryan Maxwell, followed in later years by Tim Jones, Matt Ott, Jake Behan, Cole Kraft, and Luca Nicosia (son of Steve and his wife Gabriella). In 2025, The Liquor Shop Boys added their first girl, when Steve’s daughter Frida Nicosia joined the crew.
Jake Behan and Matt Ott. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
The Liquor Shop Boys helped shape the culture and brand of the business. Handsome and personable they greeted customers warmly, whether in the store or doing home deliveries. Moreover, they developed a deep knowledge of wine and spirits and could be counted on to find the right wine paring for dinner.
The shop itself continued to be a vibrant community hub. It was set up as much to socialize as it was to sell product, and quickly became a place for people to shoot the breeze, ask for help, ride out a drug trip or find a shoulder to cry on.
Chris in the shop in the harbor. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop
Jack, Steve, and Chris understood that the very lifeblood of The Pines Liquor Shop was its relationship with the community. They let their customers, many with discerning and sophisticated palates, help shape their offering. Before long, Jack’s suppliers realized that this small shop was on the cutting edge — what was in demand in the Pines during the summer would inevitably surge in popularity across the country by fall.
Sensing this influence, distributors and vintners began making pilgrimages to the island. Jack welcomed them with open arms, hosting wine tastings, a tradition that continues to today.
Wine tastings continue at The Pines Liquor Shop. Photo courtesy The Pines Liquor Shop.
Today, the Pines Liquor Shop is known by distributors for having one of the best curated selections on the East Coast. Building on that cachet, the shop even introduced its own branded labels, including Rum Row and The Pines Liquor Shop Vodka
In a community that is notoriously demanding, their informed, highly responsive, customer centric approach has created a loyal and appreciative following.
As long time residents Helene and Russell Ellison said: “The Pines Liquor Shop is the best! They always know what we want and make sure to have it. Plus, since they know our taste, they’ve often found better things to recommend. Anyone who wants to bring wine when they visit us can stop by and ask what we drink. Can you imagine this happening anywhere else?”
Helene and Russell Ellison. Photo courtesy of Jim Cox
While working in The Pines Liquor Shop wasn’t very lucrative. it facilitated a less formal lifestyle. It enabled the staff to actively engage and build ties with the community in the summer months and pursue other interests over the winter.
For Steve it was being a DJ, and Chris was able to surf at beaches around the world.
Chris Nicosia surfing in the Pines. Photo credit: The Pines Liquor Shop
For generations of high school and college kids it was a great summer job. It was relaxed, outdoors and in a community with good tippers. There were also opportunities to supplement their income through odd jobs like fixing bikes, installing stereo systems, delivering packages, and even burying deceased animals.
While the years naturally saw a turnover in The Liquor Shop Boys, Steve and Chris have been a constant factor. They had developed a special relationship with Jack and Rita, and the community overall — in over 35 years they never missed a weekend in the shop.
This wasn’t just dedication on their part; rather, they were investing in their future – Jack and Rita had promised that they would eventually take over the business, something the Nicosia boys were keen to do having put down roots in the community - fittingly, Steve bought the house on Beach Hill that Jack first rented when he founded The Pines Liquor Shop.
Rita and Jack Lichtenstein at Whyte Hall. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
In 2010, after 46 years, Jack and Rita handed over the keys to the store to Steve and Chris. The Pines community gave them a rousing farewell, but it was still an emotional and difficult step. The Pines had been their home for a long time.
Fire Island News
They saw it through the closeted 60s, the disco 70s, the devastating 80s, the rebirth of the 90s, and a new millennium. They’d weathered not just cultural change, but community changes as well, most notably the sale of the harbor property by John Whyte to Eric von Kuersteiner.
This transition forced The Pines Liquor Shop to leave its harbor front location and return to the space behind the Pantry. This move did not sit well with Jack, and he was not unhappy to see Von Kuersteiner and his partner exit the Pines just prior to his retirement. As he quipped in his farewell speech: “I’d like to thank Tony and Eric — for leaving!”
The Harbor front location. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
The move back to the original location was not without risk for The Pines Liquor Shop. It was a less visible space, with not as much foot traffic. Also, it required significant upgrades.
The Pines Liquor Shop Renovation. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
The Nicosia brothers, with their eyes on the future, didn’t miss a beat. They renovated the place for maximum efficiency and included an area to accommodate the visitors so that The Shop could continue to be a community hub.
The Liquor Shop Boys. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
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Back to the Future. The Pines Liquor Shop returns to its original location. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
Recognizing their popularity with residents and visitors alike, Steve and Chris created a limited line of Pines Liquor Shop tee shirts that they sold in the shop. These were an instant hit with residents and visitors alike. Indeed, today the tee shirts are seen in gay destinations around the world.
South Beach. Photo courtesy of David Chen
What many people do not realize is The Pines Liquor Shop operates at very low margins. With economies of scale, mainland businesses like J&J Liquors, Costco and even New York City based establishments offer lower prices, and many residents buy off island. Despite this, whenever they were approached to support a charitable event (sometimes by people who do not patronize The Shop) Steve and Chris have said yes. The Pines is their community, and they gladly do their part.
This generosity has not gone unnoticed. Indeed, long standing residents recognize that it has always been a part of the Shop’s culture.
Seashore Defense Fund President and FIPPOA Board member Russell Saray had this to say: “Steve and Chris Nicosia’s generosity exceeds expectations. From the early days of the AIDS epidemic when they delivered lifesaving medications in IV bottles hanging from their delivery carts to supporting every non-profit event with donated wine and spirits today, it is clear they are driven to give back.”
Russell Saray. Photo courtesy of FIPPOA.
In 2020 COVID hit and many Pines residents elected to shelter on Fire Island. The Pines Liquor Shop continued to operate, carefully following directions from the State of New York.
It turned out to be the break Steve and Chris needed. Not only did competition decline, but consumption increased as many people were not willing to risk events like Tea.
Blue Whale 2020. Stock Photo.
With its COVID-safe home delivery service, The Pines Liquor Shop enabled residents to entertain at home within their social bubble. The upside of this was that Steve and Chris were finally able to get ahead of the cost curve.
Home delivery. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
Today, The Pines Liquor Shop continues to serve with big smiles, big laughs, and big hearts. The shop remains a hub where everyone is welcome, and regulars are greeted with a hug.
Steve and Chris recognize they’ve helped create something bigger than themselves. As Steve notes: “We are blessed to be the key holders for now”, a tacit recognition that one day they will likely pass the reins on to someone else.
Steve and Chris at the Shop. Photo courtesy of The Pines Liquor Shop.
Whatever the future brings, and whoever takes the reins down the road, one thing is certain: The Pines Liquor Shop carries a legacy of generosity, resilience, and belonging. Today, it is an almost indelible fixture, deeply entwined with everyday life in the Pines. While its shelves may hold spirits, the true spirit of The Pines Liquor Shop is community, connection and love.
